This is going to be a very special build
Not only is it for a special person,the circumstances of this build
are very special.A long,long,long,long,long time ago
SP was the proud owner of a 1963 Precision Bass.Because of
some unfortunate circumstances,he had to sell his baby.
Over the years he has acquired other basses,but has always
regretted having to sell his 63
I was contacted by SP's loving wife to see if I could build him a
bass.On their anniversary,she presented SP with a voucher for
him to have his new bass built.
He has decided that he would like a reproduction of his 63
We have been going over some details and the time has come
to get this thing on production.
I found out that in 63,the Precision could have been either
Ash or Alder.SP believes his was Adler.He also likes
the less pronounced grain of alder so that is what we will be using
Since the board was 10" wide I picked the straightest grain
However doing this,the joint will not be in the center
Still it looks much better and I am sure you wont see the joint
The guard will also be covering most of it
Time to glue this thing up
After the clamps come off I draw around the template
and then rough cut it on the band saw
It's starting to look like a bass
Next the template goes on and it's off to the router
Anyone need any Alder shavings?
First pass done,no incidents 
Now the template comes off and we use the pass we just
routed as a template and make the second pass
We have a SP-Bass body
That joint matched up pretty well
You can see it just a bit from this angle
I'm sure after it is sealed,you will have a hard time even finding it
OK,lets get some round edges on this thing.According
to the Fender Bass book,the p-bass has a 1/2 round over
I don't have anything here to go by so I downloaded a pic
of a 60's bass for reference and you can see I marked the
forearm contour to where I think it should go.
Out with the rasp to remove the majority of the wood
After that it was the belt sander and the random orbital to smooth
it out.I decided to leave it not rounded until I do the tummy cut
Using my picture as a reference I marked out the tummy cut
Back to the rasp
Still rasping.Thats a big tummy 
Once I finally got it all hogged out I touched it
up with the sanders.Then it was time to start rounding the edges
I thought I was finished but I see in the pics I have a slight hump
in the edge of the tummy cut
It all needs more light shaping so I will even that out. 
Got back at shaping some more tonight
Took some more off the forearm contour
I found that a cabinet scraper worked much better than
sanding block for straightening out the lines on the tummy cut.
Looks much better now
Time to get some sealer on this
Just to protect it while I do the rest of the routing
After a sanding and another coat of sealer,its time to route
We have a Musikraft neck on the way for this
One thing I noticed on my Musikraft neck is that it is just a
hair narrower at the heel than a factory Fender neck.Not
surprising,every company is a bit different on their tele necks
so why would this be any different.To make sure I am going to
get a nice snug fit in the neck pocket,I decided to make a new
template for using Musikraft necks.I will shim up the bearing on
the router for the first pass in the pocket and then finish it by
hand to get a nice fit.
Once I had the template finished,I screwed it to the body
I used two buffing wheels from the Dremel with 1/8" shanks
inserted into the bridge mounting holes to make sure the
template is lined up on the body and then screw it down.
Then using a template bit I made the first couple passes in
each cavity and take a measurement.Not deep enough yet
So I lower the bit and take some more,still not enough
I like the way this template is set up.All your cavities
and the neck pocket on one.It makes it nice for fine tuning
your router to get the exact depth for the neck pocket.
My tele templates have a separate neck pocket template.
I may have to make one with pickup routes in it
Anyway,after a bit of fine tuning I did the last pass
on the neck pocket.It is suppose to be 5/8",the same as
tele.Guess this is close enough 
As for the depths on the other routes,I could not find any
exact measurements.They are not as critical as the neck pocket.
I did the pickup route the same as a tele bridge.Should be deep
enough.If not,not hard to fix.
For the control cavity I did go deeper.
I didn't go the full 1 1/2" like a tele because there is no switch.
I did some quick adding and come up with a depth that should
easily accommodate the pots and the output jack.
Off comes the template.I guess all that is left is the
channel for the pickup wires and ground wire to the bridge
Well it's time to get amber!!
I shot the amber for the center of the burst
Time to do the initial black ring of the burst
This just kind of gives me something to go by for the middle ring
Once this cures overnight,I will shoot the middle and then
touch up the black
Well look what showed up today
A beautiful quarter sawn maple neck with Madagascar Rosewood board
Hmmm,notice the initials.Wonder what thats about 
OK,now I can fit the neck and carry on with the build
I didn't want to go any farther until I had the neck pocket
matched to the neck
I received the neckplate for this build too
Thanks once again for William at FSR for another great job
(You will find a link to him on the links page )
Before I go any farther with the build I want to fit the neck in the pocket
Before I started I could not even get the neck into the pocket,too tight
After about a 1/2 hr of sanding,testing,sanding,we have a nice tight fit
Lookin pretty good
Another piece of the puzzle showed up yesterday
Because this is going to take a long plane ride when it is complete
SP decided on a nice SKB Fender Flight case
Very nice
Just like they were made for each other 
Time to get back to work on this girl
Got my new supply of lacquer so It is time to get the burst finished
I mixed up the red for the middle ring and sprayed it
Then it was the black outer ring.
The original p-bass outer ring was actually a dark brown,not black so
I mixed up some dark brown and shot it over the black
It mellowed out the black and helped the transition from the red
Well I hate to say it but.....
After this thing cured over night,the red is just too darn red
It is almost kind of a cherry red,no good
Time to get the gun out and fix it......
More to follow 
OK,I know it does not look a lot different in the pics but.....
It looks way better now
Funny in the pics it almost looks more red,but it isn't
It has more of a browner color than before
Also it's weird how the camera defines the rings so much
Not nearly that defined in person
OK,I am happy now,Hope SP is 
Time to start with the clear topcoat
Nice to see the topcoat has helped blend the colors together
Got about 5 coats of clear on it now
There are a few bumps so it is time to give it a nice wetsanding to level it out
Starting to come together now
Good thing,time is becoming short before his arrival
I just hope that it is "KILLER" approved 
A pic after I wiped it down after the wetsanding
The time has come for one of the most stressful parts of the build
The channel for the ground wire from the bridge to the pots
I should have done this before I started the finishing,however
I didn't so I will have to do it now.
The problem is not getting too steep with the channel and coming out
the back of the body.NOW THAT WOULD SUCK
With the finish on,it is real tough to get the right angle without scuffing the surface
I ended up drilling a 1/2" hole under the bridge,used the dremel and ground the side of the hole
This give me some extra angle but it still was not enough.
I was still too steep and would have come out the back before I hit the cavity
I lined up and drilled from the cavity toward the bridge hoping to meet the other hole
Thank god it did.Next time this will all be done before.
Looks a little crude.I will clean up the hole,dab some black on it
It will never be seen anyway as it will be under the bridge
I have to say,not my neatest work 
Ok,now that I have recovered from the stress it's time to carry on
Lets get a decal on that neck
Got to get this sprayed so it can cure
A few coats,some wet sanding and a few more coats
Hows the body lookin,time is a tickin.........
Well I have to say time is up
SP will be here in 4 days
I have to get this buffed out and assembled